All posts by Julian Cantella

Professional writer based in Delaware. On the lookout for brain-altering music, beer, film, food, and people.
Pouring out a can of beer

Craft Beer Is Losing Its Identity

What makes craft beer special? Is it quality ingredients? A dedication to fans and community? Maybe it’s independence, that rebel streak signified by the craft brewer seal? If it’s any of these things, the craft beer industry has a problem: taken as a whole, it no longer fits the bill. I’ve been a fan of craft beer for about 10 years, which probably puts me somewhere in the middle in terms of tenure. Over that time, the industry has changed quite a bit. Such change…

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Who am I drinking? A diagram of US beer ownership – Updated

Jump to the diagram Over the last few years, the notion of ownership has become a major issue in the beer world. Investments and acquisitions by giants like AB InBev and Constellation Brands, not to mention a host of venture capital firms, have made it increasingly difficult to know who’s pocketing the beer consumer’s dollar. Debate among industry professionals and fans continues to heat up, and things have often gotten ugly. We’ve seen accusations and polemics, boycotts and protests. Attempting to stand out from corporate-owned…

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Russian River Roulette: How long can you age Belgians and sours?

“Time does not respect that which is done without him.” This quote, which appears on a sign in the brewery of legendary lambic producer Cantillon, reflects the idea that it takes time to make things that will last. Many Belgian-style beers and sours are the product of lengthy and complex processes, ranging from the use of multiple yeast strains to barrel aging, blending, and bottle fermentation. The results can be fantastic, generating some of the most nuanced and enduring flavors the beer world has to…

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Fighting Brewery Fatigue: A Visit to Tired Hands

It’s a new route, but the steps feel familiar: an abrupt highway exit, a few turns followed by a stretch of road that leaves the civil side of civilization behind. Then signs of industry, creeping suggestions that we might just be on the right track. After visiting more than 60 breweries, the things that used to be exciting can become rote. What once felt like fun quirks of location or setup become tropes, items to check off a well-worn list. But as beer fans, we…

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All Day All Week All Month: 30 Days with Founders’ Session Ale

The challenge was simple: make Founders All Day IPA the only beer I drank for 30 days. So why did friends, acquaintances, and people I barely knew tell me I was crazy? Why did I feel like I was somehow betraying my duty as a craft beer citizen – the duty to explore the far reaches, skip daily between styles, strengths, and sources? To take a step back, why do it at all? Addicted to New We live in an era where craft beer fans…

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The Whale Hunters: Into the Depths of Beer Trading

You’ll find them in cellars, basements, and dark closets across the country: row after row of boxes, some unmarked, others scribbled over with marker or pen. They’re packed with a hard-earned hoard, treasures amassed from months or years of research, meetings, and negotiations. These are some of the rarest beers in the country, and perhaps the world. Unless you’re the type of jet-setting beer geek who devotes your life to full-time beer tourism, this kind of collection is pretty much impossible to get without beer…

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A Stroll on the Sour Side: Understanding Sour Beer

Tart, sour, wild. Lacto, brett, pediococcus. How about koelschips, kettle sours, and krieks? In an age of craft beer enlightenment, the terminology around sour beers can still read as inscrutably as the side of a prescription drug bottle. More importantly, the odd words belie a legitimate concern for sour consumers: with all the confusion around what a sour is, it can be damn near impossible to know what the next beer you try will smell or taste like, let alone whether it’s worth the often…

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Beer Pairing 101

In my recent article about beer dinners, I touched on the importance of pairing beer and food appropriately. This topic struck a chord with some readers, who asked for more information about how pairing works and the effect it can have on your overall experience. At its core, beer pairing is about combining two of life’s great pleasures: craft beer and high-quality food. Almost every beer fan drinks with some of their meals already—why not put some thought into how the food and drink work…

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Beer Dinner Break Down

When I talk to friends and fellow beer fans about upcoming events, I’m surprised by how many are unfamiliar with or even intimidated by beer dinners. The general concept is simple: attendees pay a fixed price for multiple courses of food, each of which is paired with one or more beers. Beer dinners are growing increasingly popular as restaurateurs recognize the quality and versatility of craft beer, not to mention its ability to complement all styles of cuisine. Beer-themed events can attract customers on less-busy…

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